The Science of Skin Absorption: How Balms Actually Work
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The Science of Skin Absorption: How Balms Actually Work
You apply a balm to your skin.
And then... what happens?
Does it just sit on the surface? Does it actually get into your skin? How does it work?
Most people have no idea.
They trust that their skincare worksâbut they don't know why or how.
Here's the truth:
Your skin is incredibly smart. It's designed to be both a barrier (keeping bad stuff out) and a gateway (letting good stuff in).
Understanding how skin absorption works helps you:
- Choose better products
- Use them more effectively
- Understand why natural ingredients work so well
- Stop wasting money on products that can't penetrate
Let's talk about the science of skin absorptionâhow balms actually work, what gets in, what doesn't, and why it matters.
Your Skin: The Intelligent Barrier
Your skin isn't just a wrapper. It's your body's largest organâand one of the most sophisticated.
Three Layers of Skin:
1. Epidermis (outer layer):
The protective barrier. This is where absorption happens (or doesn't).
2. Dermis (middle layer):
Contains blood vessels, nerves, hair follicles, and sweat glands. This is where ingredients need to reach to have systemic effects.
3. Hypodermis (deepest layer):
Fat and connective tissue. Provides cushioning and insulation.
For skincare to work, it needs to penetrate the epidermis.
The Stratum Corneum: Your Skin's Gatekeeper
The outermost layer of the epidermis is called the stratum corneum.
Think of it like a brick wall:
- Bricks = Dead skin cells (corneocytes)
- Mortar = Lipids (fats and oils)
This "brick wall" is your skin's primary barrier.
Its job:
- Keep water in (prevent dehydration)
- Keep toxins, bacteria, and irritants out
- Regulate what gets absorbed
This is why you can't just slap anything on your skin and expect it to work.
Your skin is selective.
How Skin Absorption Actually Works
There are three main pathways for ingredients to penetrate your skin:
Pathway 1: Intercellular Route (Between the Cells)
What it is:
Ingredients travel through the lipid (fat) layers between skin cells.
What gets through:
Lipophilic (fat-loving) ingredientsâoils, fatty acids, fat-soluble vitamins.
Why balms work so well:
Balms are oil-based, so they naturally follow this pathway. The oils in balms (jojoba, rosehip, etc.) are similar to your skin's natural lipids, so they integrate easily.
This is the primary route for most skincare ingredients.
Pathway 2: Transcellular Route (Through the Cells)
What it is:
Ingredients pass directly through skin cells.
What gets through:
Very small molecules that can penetrate cell membranes.
Why it's less common:
This route is harder because ingredients have to pass through multiple cell membranes.
Pathway 3: Appendageal Route (Through Hair Follicles & Sweat Glands)
What it is:
Ingredients enter through hair follicles, sweat glands, and pores.
What gets through:
Larger molecules that can't penetrate the stratum corneum directly.
Why it matters:
This is a "shortcut" into deeper skin layers, but it only covers about 0.1% of your skin's surface area.
Bottom line:
Most skincare absorption happens through the intercellular routeâtraveling through the lipid layers between cells.
This is why oil-based products (like balms) are so effective.
What Determines If an Ingredient Gets Absorbed?
Not all ingredients can penetrate your skin. Here's what matters:
1. Molecular Size
The rule:
Smaller molecules penetrate better than larger ones.
The threshold:
Generally, molecules under 500 Daltons (a unit of molecular weight) can penetrate the stratum corneum.
Examples:
Can penetrate:
- Water (18 Da)
- Glycerin (92 Da)
- Vitamin C (176 Da)
- Retinol (286 Da)
- Essential oils (most are under 500 Da)
Cannot penetrate (too large):
- Collagen (300,000 Da)
- Hyaluronic acid (high molecular weight forms: 1,000,000+ Da)
- Most proteins and peptides
This is why topical collagen doesn't workâit's way too big to get into your skin.
But essential oils in balms? They're small enough to penetrate easily.
2. Lipophilicity (Fat-Loving vs. Water-Loving)
The rule:
Fat-soluble (lipophilic) ingredients penetrate better than water-soluble (hydrophilic) ones.
Why:
Your skin's barrier is made of lipids (fats). Fat-loving ingredients dissolve into this barrier and pass through easily.
Examples:
Lipophilic (penetrate well):
- Oils (jojoba, rosehip, argan)
- Fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, K)
- Essential oils
- Fatty acids
Hydrophilic (penetrate poorly):
- Water
- Water-soluble vitamins (C, B)
- Glycerin (needs help to penetrate)
This is why balms (oil-based) are more effective than water-based lotions for delivering active ingredients.
3. Skin Condition
Healthy skin barrier = selective absorption
Damaged skin barrier = increased absorption (but also increased irritation)
Factors that affect absorption:
Increases absorption:
- Damaged or compromised skin barrier
- Hydrated skin (damp skin absorbs better)
- Warm skin (heat increases penetration)
- Thin skin (face, eyelids)
- Occlusion (covering skin after application)
Decreases absorption:
- Thick, calloused skin (heels, palms)
- Dry skin
- Cold skin
- Intact, healthy barrier
This is why we recommend applying balms to damp skinâit increases absorption.
4. Concentration & Formulation
The rule:
Higher concentration = better penetration (to a point).
But formulation matters more than concentration.
A well-formulated product with 5% active ingredient can penetrate better than a poorly formulated product with 10%.
Why balms work:
The oil base enhances penetration of active ingredients. Botanicals infused into oils are delivered more effectively than if they were in water-based formulas.
Why Balms Are So Effective for Skin Absorption
Now you understand the science. Here's why balms work so well:
1. Oil-Based = Lipophilic
Balms are made of oils, butters, and waxesâall lipophilic (fat-loving).
Your skin's barrier is also lipophilic.
Result:Â Balm ingredients integrate seamlessly into your skin's natural lipid barrier and penetrate effectively.
2. Small Molecular Size
The active ingredients in balmsâessential oils, plant extracts, vitaminsâare small enough to penetrate.
Examples from Bovanique balms:
Rosehip oil:
Rich in vitamin A (retinol), vitamin C, and essential fatty acidsâall small enough to penetrate.
Frankincense essential oil:
Contains boswellic acids and monoterpenesâsmall, lipophilic molecules that penetrate easily.
Lavender essential oil:
Linalool and linalyl acetateâsmall molecules that penetrate and provide aromatherapy benefits.
These aren't just sitting on your skin's surfaceâthey're getting in and doing their job.
3. Occlusive Effect
Balms create a protective layer on your skin (occlusion).
Why this matters:
- Prevents water loss (keeps skin hydrated)
- Increases skin temperature slightly (enhances penetration)
- Gives active ingredients more time to absorb
This is why balms are especially effective at nightâyou apply them, go to sleep, and they work for hours.
4. No Water = More Concentrated
Water-based products are dilutedâoften 60-80% water.
Balms contain no waterâthey're 100% active ingredients.
Result:Â Higher concentration of beneficial compounds, better penetration, more effective results.
5. Synergistic Formulation
In balms, ingredients work together to enhance absorption.
Example:
Jojoba oil (carrier) + frankincense essential oil (active) = the jojoba helps deliver the frankincense deeper into the skin.
This is why whole-plant, oil-based formulations are more effective than isolated synthetic ingredients.
Natural vs. Synthetic: What Penetrates Better?
Here's where it gets interesting.
Natural Ingredients Often Penetrate Better
Why:
1. Molecular compatibility:
Natural oils and botanicals are chemically similar to your skin's natural lipids. Your skin recognizes them and allows them in.
2. Smaller molecular size:
Many natural compounds (essential oils, plant extracts) are small enough to penetrate easily.
3. Synergistic compounds:
Natural ingredients contain multiple beneficial compounds that work together, enhancing absorption and effectiveness.
4. No synthetic barriers:
Synthetic ingredients (silicones, polymers, synthetic fragrances) can create a barrier that prevents absorption of other ingredients.
Synthetic Ingredients That Don't Penetrate Well:
Silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone):
Sit on the surface, create a barrier, don't penetrate. They make skin feel smooth but don't provide real benefits.
Large synthetic polymers:
Too big to penetrate. Used for texture, not efficacy.
Synthetic fragrances:
Often large molecules that sit on the surface and can irritate without providing benefits.
This is why natural balms often work better than synthetic creamsâthe ingredients actually get into your skin.
How to Maximize Skin Absorption
Now that you understand the science, here's how to use your balms more effectively:
1. Apply to Damp Skin
Why:
Hydrated skin absorbs better. Water temporarily loosens the stratum corneum, allowing ingredients to penetrate more easily.
How:
- After cleansing, pat your skinâdon't dry completely
- Apply balm while skin is still slightly damp
- The balm will lock in that moisture and penetrate better
2. Warm the Product
Why:
Warmth increases penetration.
How:
- Warm a small amount of balm between your fingers
- The heat melts it slightly and makes it easier to apply
- Also warms your skin slightly, enhancing absorption
3. Massage It In
Why:
Massage increases circulation, warms the skin, and helps ingredients penetrate.
How:
- Don't just slap it onâtake 30-60 seconds to massage it in
- Use gentle, circular motions
- This also feels good and turns skincare into self-care
4. Apply at Night
Why:
Your skin regenerates at night. Applying balms before bed gives them hours to absorb and work.
How:
- Apply as the last step in your nighttime routine
- Let it absorb overnight
- Wake up with nourished, regenerated skin
5. Use Consistently
Why:
Skin absorption is cumulative. Regular use builds up beneficial compounds in your skin over time.
How:
- Use your balms daily (or as recommended)
- Consistency matters more than quantity
- Small amounts, used regularly, are more effective than large amounts used sporadically
What Doesn't Get Absorbed (And Why That's Okay)
Not everything needs to penetrate to be effective.
Surface-Level Benefits:
Occlusives (beeswax, shea butter):
Don't penetrate deeply, but create a protective barrier that prevents water loss. This is beneficial.
Emollients (some oils):
Smooth and soften the skin's surface without necessarily penetrating. Still helpful.
This is why balms work on multiple levels:
- Some ingredients penetrate and provide deep benefits
- Some ingredients stay on the surface and protect
- Together, they support skin health inside and out
The Bottom Line: Balms Work Because Science
Skin absorption isn't magicâit's science.
Balms are effective because:
â
 Oil-based formulation - Matches your skin's lipid barrier
â
 Small molecular size - Active ingredients can penetrate
â
 High concentration - No water dilution
â
 Occlusive effect - Locks in moisture and enhances absorption
â
 Natural ingredients - Chemically compatible with your skin
â
 Synergistic formulation - Ingredients work together
When you apply a balm, you're not just moisturizing the surface.
You're delivering active botanical compounds deep into your skin, where they can:
- Reduce inflammation
- Support healing
- Regenerate cells
- Protect from damage
- Nourish and restore
That's not marketing. That's science.
And that's why balms work.
Ready to experience the science of effective skin absorption?
Our balms are formulated for maximum penetration and effectiveness:
Anti-aging & regeneration:
Shop GlowGuard â
Soothing & healing:
Shop SootheSkin â
Muscle & joint relief:
Shop ArthriEase â | Shop RestoreRelief â
Stress relief & sleep:
Shop TranquilTouch â
Clarifying & balancing:
Shop DermaDetox â
Shop all balms:
Explore Our Collection â
Questions about how our balms work? Email us at bovaniquebalms@gmail.com
Free shipping on orders over $75 within Canada. Handcrafted in Vancouver, BC.
Science-backed. Nature-powered. Proven effective.